Strip the seat.
Remove any existing cushion, slipcover or pillow. You are measuring the bare bench, frame, or window ledge.
MEASURE LIKE A MAKER
A custom cushion is only as good as the numbers you write down before we cut the foam. Three quiet rules: measure the frame, not the old cushion. Use a rigid tape, not a soft one. Write everything down twice.
QUICK METHOD
A bare seat, a rigid tape, and a notebook. That is everything.
Remove any existing cushion, slipcover or pillow. You are measuring the bare bench, frame, or window ledge.
Width (left to right), Depth (front to back), Thickness (your desired cushion height — typically 2–3" for dining seats, 4–5" for lounging).
Re-measure each dimension. If your two numbers disagree by more than 1/4", measure a third time. Photograph the seat with the tape in place.
RECOMMENDED FREE APPS
These are free and verified. Use them as a secondary check on tricky shapes — phone AR is not construction-grade, treat as a sanity check.
For complex bays. Full floor-plan sketch.
Built-in banquettes and window-seat alcoves where you want a full plan. Free tier covers a single project — enough for most cushion orders.
THE FIVE RULES
Follow these and your cushion will fit. Skip them and you will be sending us a remake.
Foam compresses and fabric stretches. An old cushion that started life at 24" will read 23 1/4" after three summers. Strip and measure the bare seat.
A carpenter's tape stays straight along a 36" edge. A tailor's cloth tape sags and adds 1/8" to 3/8" of slack — enough to make a snug fit feel sloppy.
Width and depth are straight-line, point-to-point. Never lay the tape along the curve of a kidney, scallop, or bowed front.
Don't round up "to be safe." Cushions are sewn to your number. Rounding up creates gaps. We build a 1/2" upholsterer's allowance into every cushion already.
Pick inches or centimeters and stay there. Mixing the two is the single most common cause of remakes.
SHAPE BY SHAPE
Width × Depth × Thickness. Measure width at front and back; if they differ by more than 1/2", you actually have a trapezoid. Thickness at the deepest point.
Diameter at widest point through the center, plus thickness. Measure 90° apart — frames are rarely perfectly round.
Major axis (long), minor axis (short), thickness. Both through the center. Do not measure the perimeter.
Length end-to-end, plus diameter at the middle. If it sits inside a daybed frame, measure inside frame length and subtract 1/2".
Front width, back width, depth at the center (never along the angled side), thickness.
Treat each leg as its own rectangle. Sketch on paper, label every edge, photograph and send. We respond within 4 hours.
Width, length, front thickness, back thickness. The two thickness numbers make the shape — do not average them.
Three separate cushions, three separate measurements. Do not measure the whole bay then divide. Note left / center / right so we sew in order.
COMMON MISTAKES
Compression hides up to 1" of width per side after a few seasons.
A 60" tailor's tape sags and adds 1/4" to 1/2" of fictional length. Carpenter's tape for any edge over 24".
A 1/2" oversize cushion buckles at the corners. Give us the real number — our 1/2" allowance is already in the math.
Kidney, scallop, and bowed-front cushions are straight line, point-to-point. Curve depth is noted separately.
When ordering back + seat together, subtract the seat thickness from total back height. Otherwise the back rises above the frame.
WHEN TO SEND A PHOTO
We respond within 4 hours during business hours and quote within 24.
compound curves rarely translate to a phone screen.
back angle changes how the seat cushion sits.
bay windows are often 110°, 120°, or "almost square but not quite."
modular sofas with custom corner blocks.
send us your numbers and a photo — we'll work it out.
START NOW
Pick your shape and start the configurator — we'll quote your cushion in real time.